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Chaart your email address gambling to date! Read more about it here Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. Did you miss your activation email? News: Keep your email address up cowboy date! Henry Guest. When you cast your own bullets for black powder shooting, which alloy and hardness do you use. For my Henry and my Sharpsi use a chart Howdy I actually vary my alloy a bit, depending on which mold I am using. This is because the shrinkage rate varies with the alloy.

The basic problem is, Lee molds have a fairly large range gamlbing what they call in spec. I have a real good supply of pure lead scraps. I add about 4 ounces of tin to every ten pounds of lead, gambling cowboy hardness chart. This alloy shrinks chart about right so that when I size my bullets to.

However my Mav-Dutchman mold drops bullets hardness a little chart larger than I would like with that alloy, so I cast them from pure lead. No tin added. Pure hardness shrinks the most on cooling and I then size them to. Ya probably inherited every penny ya got! Noz Top Active Citizen Posts: Wheel weights for my MavDutchmans and pure lead for my RB.

Right now no harder than a wheel weight and as close to pure lead as I can get. See more want as close to dead soft as I can get gambling still use the cheap wheel weights so I bought 50 lbs of pure lead for 95 cents a pound shipping included to add to the wheel weight ingots.

I ran a hardjess 2 pounds of lead per 1 pound of wheel weights as a trial. This should be somewhere between a to alloy, I want to determine if I bambling tell any practical difference hardnness dead soft and an alloy above I got a 25 gambling of salvaged scrap lead from generous friends cable sheathing gamblng.

Hope I did hardness right thing. I'll use it for gr RN. I only use dead soft or near dead soft sheet lead for the. I only hardnsss dead soft pig lead for 58 gabling minies. Ranch 13 Top Gambling Citizen Posts: For the most part I usecowboy bullets I do use 2 alloy for. For my. I managed to get a slew of near-pure hardnness lead and Gambling usually use it about with reclaimed wheelweight ally.

For that I add a pound of tin to fifty parts lead. It seems to be about the coowboy amount of tin I can add and still get the free flowing, gambling filling advantages chhart tin. If I were shooting long range stuff I'd be more careful with my alloy, as it is I can get around two and a half inches at a hundred yards with my harndess inch Chart 92 clone gambling a tang sight and a good rest.

At least hardness BP. I have one smokeless load that shoots closer than that but this is the BP forum. The reason the cap and ball guns like the dead soft lead is to be kind to their loading gambling movies perfume. The older alloys online play games free it the ca'tridge guns was so gambling because ot the wild hzrdness in bore size in the same load, gun to gun.

The softer the bullet, the easier it is to slug up to oversized bores and squeeze down to minimum bores. To the best hardness my knowledge, the only widely cowboyy commercial pure lead bullets are the Remingtons with that ugly black lube.

Still, if one wants to experiment with some dead soft lead bullets without buying a big gambling of lead, those Remingtons start looking good. For muzzleloaders I use as cowvoy to pure lead as I can article source. For anything that goes into a cartridge pistol, I have all the range lead I can dig out of a Savage Arms "Snail" bullet trap available to me for free so I use that.

Free is always good, and Snail traps make for really clean lead as range scrap goes. It typically measures softer than 2 alloy, probably hardness there is a significant percentage of jacketed bullets mixed in with a larger percentage of cast bullets.

For my cannons I use this stuff as well, simply because my cannon balls weigh over 2 apiece hardness "Free is good". For rifle shooting I still have a few hundred pounds of Linotype that I can add to my range scrap to harden it up if Cowboy feel the need to. I was there when a print shop closed up about 15 years ago and "helped the guy out" by taking about of type away. It's gotta be getting next to impossible to find now. Do they still use Linotype machines any more?

Pure-ish lead is usually easy to identify in it's original form - pipe, flashing, cable sheath. All Xray shielding lead I have found to date has been pretty soft as well. Pure-ish lead can be marked easily with a fingernail for quick ID method.

The composition hzrdness range hardness varies from week to week, depending on who is using the range. If we let cops qualify there one week, there will be lots of gambping bullets in there so it will be cowvoy softer alloy. The weeks that leagues shoot there is will be mostly cast bullets, closer to a 2 resulting mixture.

Driftwood, If you ever want to trade some of your cowboy lead" stash chart some harder range scrap, I would trade ya 3 of chart scrap to a pound of pure lead.

I've got cowboy lot" of hardness scrap. Anything chart the 9 Brinell hardness works well. I use that same alloy in my wife's smokeless cowboy guns gambling it also works fine just click for source my 45 auto.

Just cowboy, bullet to bore fit is more important then lead hardness. If it is too small it will probably be less accurate and lead more. Full time Mr. Mom and part time leatherworker and bullet caster. Quote from: Springfield Slim on January 19,hardnesss.

NC Hardhess Lord CFDA takes a back seat to no other caliber. I never got into the whole "brinnell hardness" thing fer targets and hunting loads, I just weight the lead and the tin and mix it by weight. There's two different chart divergent cowboy here. Most of our cast bullets travel only to SASS distance targets. Then, there's BPCR shooting. Most SASS long range matches don't go beyond yards. Then, there's the rest. True long range BPCR shooting is whole nuther discipline.

So, hsrdness you read the posts to this thread, keep in mind your mission. Don't cowboy your money on the mahogany for more performance than you need.

In other words, WW metal will serve most of your needs just fine. Pay thru the nose and then hold your nose up high as you shoot SASS main match distances. There's a Cadillac waiting for you in the parking lot. There are hardness least two distinct missions floating on this thread. The only thing they have in common is lead. All else is subjective. Quote from: Dick Dastardly on January 19,pm. Universal recipe for rifle or revolver! Howdy Jack, The flip answer would be "whatever I had in my gun at the time".

Although that's true enough, all of those scenarios could be well served with a healthy application of wheel weight alloy. Fhart cheep, it's soft enough to obturate without shattering and it's readily available. Each could be ideally served by a special alloy, but all together chart be well served by wheel weight alloy. Now, for targets beyond yards and out to yards you'd vambling to carefully tailor your alloy to the gun, bullet design and conditions. Now that that is clear gakbling mud, your next question?

Quote from: Savvy Jack on January 19,pm. Quote from: Fox Creek Kid on January 19,pm. Jack, in my cowboy hardnes the woods, gamhling bullets gets one 10 gambing and with good behavior, release after 7 And remember, in the dark with the yellow stuff chart down your cowboy - low probability of hitting a man size target in the vitals using centerfires of ANY KIND.

Might want to consider a 12 ga with 00 buck shot that does cowbiy 30 inch pattern OK, back to the main topic of the thread. Quote from: john boy on January 20,am. Except for when I am doing hollowpoints, then more tin.

For my Henry and my Sharpsi use a Product Type. The lowest numbered ball must always be hit first. Show Sidebar.

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